Australia Day 14-15: Sydney to Moscow

Phew, we’re finally here, my last Australia post. Thanks to those of you who stuck with me through the rambling series. I’m excited to have taken a long trip like this and blogged it through. I look forward to looking back at this years from now and remembering the trip and hope you’ve enjoyed the ride.

Sunday was my final day in Sydney. I booked a late flight out so that I would get one final day in town.

The weather was looking so-so, but I couldn’t leave Sydney without checking out Bondi Beach, so Aaron and decided than rather lay out on the beach in grey weather, we would do the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk, a six kilometer walk through the Sydney suburbs beginning at Bondi Beach.

As you could see, there weren’t a lot of other people out on Bondi that morning, but there was beauty in the grey.

First thing to see as we headed up the coast were the salt water lap pools at the Bondi Iceberg Club where members can swim with a view, but avoid the sharks.
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The coastal views were gorgeous even in the slightly rainy weather.

We even caught some surfers out in the waves. I’m a little sad that the weather didn’t cooperate in my effort to take a surf lesson.
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Love that DHL sponsors the lifesaving clubs.
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There’s so much coastline in Australia that even some of the cemeteries have a view. Not a bad place to spend eternity.

I loved the contrast between the red and green and blue.

Also taking up valuable coastal real estate — lawn bowling clubs.

The trees by the lawn bowling greens were filled with dozens of these little guys.

And an Australian Rules Football pitch.

Perfect way to spend an afternoon:

We had planned to have lunch in Coogee, but there was honestly nothing appetizing looking, and it was to be my last meal before heading back to the food desert that is Russia, so we grabbed a cab back to the hotel. The Filipino babushka cab driver was amazing and we got our own backroads tour of Sydney. As well as a critique of cricket players. In her mind, only Australian Football players were real men. Cricket players are just drinkers.

I wanted one last Asian kick, so the hotel recommended the Noodle Bar at the food court at David Jones department store. I was skeptical, but the wait and the crowds at what boiled down to a counter in the basement of a department store proved to be worth braving for one last delicious noodle dish before I hit the road.

We grabbed some cheese and crackers and headed to the park across the street from the hotel to spend a few hours reading before it was time to catch my flight. Aaron went and coached some people playing life size chess, while I watched the speed chess players and tried to pretend it wasn’t drizzling. The rain came in and out, but I knew it would still be better than what was in store for me in Russia.

Regretfully, it was time to head back to the hotel, shower and head off to the plane. I was not ready to leave. Two weeks is only a beginning to Australia, and I really hope that I get to return some day and revisit some favorite spots as well as hit parts of the country that I’ve never been.

It was an easy metro ride from the hotel to the airport.

Once at the airport, I used my SkyTeam Elite status to jump the line at China Southern and even managed to score a lounge pass to the Quantas Lounge. After some airport window shopping I headed to an amazing lounge. Great selection of wines, including a choice from a vineyard we’d visited in Yarra Valley and iMacs available for free use.

Eventually, it was time to board, and I was disappointed to find out that it wasn’t quite as nice of a plane as we had last time. I’m not sure whether it was the sleeping pill that I took or my general exhaustion, but I don’t remember much of the flight.

I woke up in China and went through customs where my passport was stamped with my day visa yet again. As I had a seven hour lay hour, I tried to head to the lounge, and declined the hotel room offered to me by the airline.

Alas, my plans were foiled. Because it was a special transit flight with a domestic stopover in Urumqi, we were not allowed to go through international departures where the lounge was. I now had six hours in the airport and nothing to do. I made my way back to customer service and tried to argue my way into the lounge. No luck.

They did, however, offer me the hotel room again. Why not? I thought. I’m not picky. It can’t be that bad. And I joined another Russian couple that was heading back to Moscow. Escorts from the airline escorted us to a minivan and next thing you knew, we were headed into Guangzhou. I was in China.

Now, keep in mind that I’ve spent the last 18 months living and traveling around the FSU. I don’t have particularly high standards.

The first warning sign was that when I go to the hotel they tried to put me in a room with a stranger. I’m alone, I said. I’m not staying with someone I don’t know. Again, and again they tried to put me in a room with someone. Finally I convinced them to give me what I thought was my own room.

It was a disaster. I walked into a disgusting hotel room that was not only falling apart, but that was filthy. Both beds had been slept in, the room had not been cleaned between guests, and the bathroom was filthy with a sink stopped full of dirty water.

I turned around, went back downstairs and told them that I wanted to go back to the airport. Instead, they gave me a breakfast coupon.

I was not at all interested in eating at this establishment, so I spent the next hour dozing in the hotel lobby, waiting for a shuttle to pick me up.

Eventually, I made it back to the airport. I hope to return to China one day, but a return trip to that particular hotel is not in order.

Fortunately, this time I figured out how much a Chinese Yuan was worth and that there were some restaurants in the mall underneath the airport that took credit cards. I had a decent bowl of noodles and cup of tea to kills some time.

Finally, about an hour before my flight, security let me through. I thought I could do some duty free shopping, but it turned out they were holding us in a special holding area with no bathrooms or shops because of our weird domestic flight issue.

After being held there for an hour, it was clear that our flight was not going to be on time, and we started to get restless. No explanation, no bathrooms. No one was happy. The only amusing thing was a Russian guy who had been on my flight to China from Moscow two weeks earlier recognized me from when the security agent in Urumqi was sure I was trying to smuggle vodka in on my flight over.

We finally boarded, and I’m going to choose not to recount the flight. Suffice it to say that it was not as pleasant as the NYE party on the way over. But . . . Pasha was waiting for me at the airport and it was kind of good to be home.

Australia Day 13: Sydney

Saturday was my one full day in Sydney.

Lesson quickly learned — one full day isn’t enough to even scratch the surface. Especially when that day is cool, overcast and drizzly. Despite the less than promising weather, we were going to make the best of it, and headed from our hotel towards the botanic gardens. We were looking to stop for coffee on the way, but at the gate of the garden, came across a charming cafe where we had quiche and coffee (or I had quiche and coffee, not sure what everyone else had).

Into the Sydney Botanic Gardens we headed. Aaron had been before and neglected to share a key point, so we were surprised to look up and see the following.

Yes, those are bats. Dozens, if not hundreds, if not thousands, of bats.

Some just hanging out in the trees.

And some that were squealing and fighting with each other.

Having been a bio major and having staffed a zoo mobile complete with tarantulas, alligators, and pythons in college, I’m not particularly squeamish around animals, but I didn’t really want to stand under the fighting bats for an extended period of time, so we moved on.

Our next wildlife encounter was much cuter, as we ran into this little guy, who had been separated from his mother. He was being chased by several adult Australian natives, who thought they could wrangle him back to his mom. They were ultimately successful, but think they scared the living daylights out of him.

Those of you that have known me since high school will appreciate the duck encounter, but this little guy didn’t follow me around like Emma and Cecil.

We walked through the gardens to the Opera House. Unfortunately, due to the uncooperative weather, I wasn’t able to get a classic gorgeous Sydney shot, but we did get a picture of Aaron and I in front of the Opera House.

From there we walked along to the Harbor Bridge. Same grey weather, but gorgeous bridge.

After the bridge, we explored the Rocks Area, which had a fun Saturday market, and had teas and scones at an Irish tea room.

Then it was time for the highlight of our Sydney Visit — the Sydney Bridge Climb. You see that top arch? Yep, we walked over it. It’s probably one of the most expensive tourist activities that I’ve ever engaged in, but totally worth it. If you think you’ll only be in Sydney once in your life, do it.

You get to the Bridge Climb headquarters in the Rocks District and check in. Then you sign some waivers (only a little scary) and they line you all up in a room for a breathalyzer test. Yes, you read that right. Pre-Australia, 0 lifetime breathalyzers. Post-Australia, 2. Fortunately, I passed both with flying colors. Then then send you into a changing area, where you’re issue a bridge climb suit, and have to take off anything that might hang from you. You’re also issued rain gear (which came in useful), a fleece (not needed), and other stuff. Unfortunately, for safety’s sake, no cameras permitted. Cameras falling onto traffic below would be bad.

After changing into your climb suit and being strapped into your safety harness, there’s some time to practice walking on a model section of the bridge. And then before you know it, you’re walking up over the arch. There are several different times of day, but I think we did it perfectly. With a late afternoon (5:45ish climb) we were able to climb the bridge in the daylight, and saw the sunset on our descent. Even experiencing a rain storm come in, soak us, and head out to sea, was amazing. By the time we were all changed and ready to head to dinner, it was dark. Our guide was very knowledgeable, but a little saccharine for our taste. Still, there are no words to describe standing on the tip top of the Harbor Bridge (by the flags in the picture) looking out over Sydney.

Australia Day 12: Roo Island to Adelaide to Sydney

Not too much to say about this day that brought us from Kanagroo Island to Sydney.

We started the day early to make sure we’d make our ferry and make our flight, but the drive to Penneshaw took far less time than we thought, and we had plenty of time for coffee and breakfast at a little cafe in Penneshaw. An uneventful ferry ride took us back to Cape Jervis, where we retraced our steps to Adelaide.

I think we all drew a huge sigh of relief as we returned the rental car without any additional incidents. We saw kangaroo carcasses all over the sides of the road on the Island and on the roads in South Australia, so were quite happy to have avoided that Australian peril. The week worth of driving on the wrong side of the road had taken its toll on Aaron and I, and a weight definitely lifted as we handed over the keys.

An uneventful flight from Adelaide to Sydney, a short cab ride and we checked into the Sydney Sheraton.

After some down time, Ashely and I actually did our hair, put on makeup, and dressed up for the first time in days and headed for dinner in Circular Quay. One or two failed attempts at sushi later, we ended up with a fantastic dinner at Nick’s Seafood Restaurant.

On the way back to the hotel, we found an outdoor bar for some cocktails and befriended the guys sitting next to us. Roommates, they were an Australian and Irishman lived in Melbourne, but had taken their motorcycles on a road trip to Sydney and stayed far longer than planned. Apparently they had just seen the circus, where a friend of the Australian worked. Eventually some of the circus folks joined us for drinks as well, where it turned out that the friend now works behind the scenes, but used to be a strong woman.

All in all, a fantastic first night in Sydney.