April 25: Fes to Casablanca

Scale in the Mellah. Click for more pictures.

Today we awoke early and departed the Palais Jamai for the final time.  Our first stop of the day was the mellah, or the Jewish quarter.  Only about 150 Jews still live in Fes, but both Ibn Danan Synagogue and the cemetery have been lovingly restored and cared for.  In the cemetery we said an impromptu kaddish for those that have no family to say it for them anymore.  The synagogue was modest and in the sephardic vein.  We were able to view the mikvah and were joined by a group of french tourists.   After seeing cats galore in the medina, I was thrilled to find a pair of mangy pups outside the synagogue.  As filthy as they were, their faces still spoke to me.

It was back on our minibus for a ride to Volubulis, Roman ruins located in between Fes and Casablanca.  It was rainy and chilly, so we didn’t enjoy the ruins as we might have.  And unfortunately, the bathrooms were the worst we encountered our entire trip (just a hole in the ground with two footpads).

We did get to see the Roman surprise and some beautiful mosaics.

From there it was off to Meknes.  We had planned time to tour, but were running quite late, so just a lunch (definitely not quick) and then it was off to the Hyatt Casablanca where we to meet up with about 30 chevre who had arrived in Casablanca before the group flight.

Dinner with Chevre was at an amazing restaurant right on the sea.  Delicious sea bass followed by an ice cream Sunday.  While Morocco is known for its pastries, I do love my ice cream.  Drinks at the bar and then to bed.  The next day we were to meet up with the rest of our chevre.

Volubulis

April 23: Casablanca to Fes

A window in the twisted streets of the medina. Click on image for more pictures.

After making it through passport control by pulling out French I haven’t used in since 1994 (“Je suis un avocat”) and explaining that we were not in fact, a group of avocados, all of our luggage arrived safely and we were met by our guide Youssef, a Berber from the Atlas mountains near Fes, and our driver from Heritage Travel.

We hopped on our minibus and headed off for our 4 hour drive to Fes.  I wish I could tell you something about the drive because I hear it’s beautiful, but I, and all the rest of us slept most of the way.  We arrives at the Palais Jamai, which was gorgeous.  Our rooms are lovely and have terraces overlooking the medina (pictures to follow) and a beautiful pool.

R, M, and I decided to refresh with a traditional hammam treatment.  This involved changing into our bathing suits and spending time in an incredible stone and mosaic steam room.  No, there aren’t pictures, but it was the first time in my life I’ve ever wanted to spend more than approximately 75 seconds in a steam room.  M went first, and then it was my turn.  The attendant takes you to a warm room with a stone table in the middle.  You lay on your back, and the attendant rinses you off.  Then the attendant applies some sort of bay leaf and olive based paste and scrubs you down and massages you front and back.  You’re rinsed again, and then scrubbed down, and I mean scrubbed down with an exfoliating mitt.  The attendant makes a point of showing how much dead skin they are sloughing off your body.  After one more rinse, you’re wrapped in a towel and free to go.  Absolutely the best way to refresh from a long flight.

After a quick lunch at the pool, we toured a small section of the medina.  Then it was on to the ramparts, an overview of the city and a tour of a pottery factory where artisans make mosaic tiles and tagines.  The cutting of mosaic tiles is some of the toughest work I’ve ever seen.

Back to the hotel, and though I tried to avoid it, a nap.  For dinner we went to Palais La Medina for a traditional Moroaccan meal and entertainment.  And it was entertaining.  Moroccan music and drummers, followed by a middle aged belly dancer.  Though she might have been in her late 40s, she could move.  And she got SD up there with her.  One of the French tourists complemented SD and said that her moves were as good as the pro’s.  Then there was a magician, who used M as assistant.  Though he promised M a kitten, in the end he got her bra.  (E- don’t worry, it really wasn’t hers.)  The last act was a surprise.  R&I waited downstairs while SD, SB and M went upstairs.  We learned they were to be married off.  They returned shortly later, with M dressed in full Moroccan wedding garb, and the Ss as bridesmaids.  They were lifted in a traditional basket and we ended the evening dancing with them onstage.  Though a little cheesy, anything with this group of girls would be fun.  The food was amazing, and I love ending every meal with mint tea.

Back to the hotel a whole lot livelier than we were 8 hours ago.  We think Youssef might have liked it better when we were asleep.